Siena Tart

15 years ago - #desserts

Screw pumpkin pie! This is the dessert that says "fall" to me. I make it usually twice a year as it is always a crowd pleaser. Thought the ingredients are all common, people usually take the first bite and say "what's in this?"

Siena is a charming medieval city just south of Florence that is best known for its famous horse race, called the Palio, in which riders wearing the bright, traditional colors and insignia of each of the city's time-honored neighborhoods vie for first place in a thunderous free-for-all around the beautiful piazza. It is a place that takes tradition seriously, in food as well as horse races, which is evident in its dedication to panforte. Every store in the city seems to have its own "best" version of this honey-based cross between a fruitcake and a candy, with a chewy, dense, caramel-like texture packed with almonds and hazelnuts, spices, and candied citrus peels. While in Siena, I tasted many versions-all for research purposes, you understand-and my favorites were those that contained the cocoa, which tempers the sweetness and adds complexity to the flavor. I couldn't help thinking that panforte would be even better packed with those addictive dried sour cherries from Michigan that I adore. This tart is very reminiscent in flavor to a scuro panforte, although it is not the classic cake-like confection. Instead, a crisp tart shell is filled with almonds (both sliced and whole for a contrast of textures) and dried sour cherries coated with just enough honey, spices, and citrus zest to sweeten them. The tart is a gorgeous, rustic sight, the sensuous curves of the nuts and cherries a glistening medley of browns. I serve it during the winter months, when its spicy flavors and chewy crunchiness are most appreciated.

Taken from Cindy Mushet's Desserts: Mediterranean Flavors, California Style

YIELD: serves 8 to 10

EQUIPMENT AND ADVANCE PREPARATION:

1 recipe Shortcrust Dough to fill a 9-or 9 1/2 inch fluted tart pan with removable bottom, partially baked and cooled

FOR THE FILLING:

  • 1 1/2 cups (4 1/2 ounces) sliced almonds
  • 3/4 cup (3 3/4 ounces) whole natural almonds
  • 3/4 Cup (3 1/2 ounces) dried sour cherries
  • 4 tablespoons (3/4 ounce) powdered sugar
  • 2 teaspoons unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground coriander
  • Pinch of ground white pepper
  • 1/2 cup (6 ounces) honey, preferably orange blossom or wildflower
  • 1 tablespoon finely minced orange zest, about 1 large orange
  • 1 teaspoon finely minced lemon zest

FOR SERVING:

  • Honeyed Mascarpone

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Position an oven rack in the center of the oven.

To make the filling, place the sliced almonds, whole almonds, and cherries in a medium mixing bowl. Sift the powdered sugar, cocoa powder, and spices over them and stir with a rubber spatula until they are evenly coated. Place the honey, orange zest, and lemon zest in a small saucepan and cook over low heat just until the honey is hot to the touch and very liquid - do not let it boil. Remove from the heat and let the mixture sit for 5 minutes, so that the honey is flavored with the citrus zests. Then pour the honey over the nuts and cherries, scraping every bit out of the pan with the rubber spatula. Stir until everything is evenly coated with the honey. At first, it will seem that there is not enough honey, but continue to stir gently (trying not to break the sliced almonds) and eventually the nuts will be thoroughly coated. Be sure to scrape up from the bottom of the bowl as you stir, as pockets of dry cocoa powder and spices tend to form there.

Scrape the filling into the prebaked tart shell and use the spatula or your hands to pat it into an even layer. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until a deep golden brown. Remove from the oven and place on a rack to cool completely.

To unmold, when cool, center the tart pan on top of a large can (1 use a large can of tomatoes) so that it balances midair as the rim of the tart pan falls to the counter. Leave the bottom of the pan under the tart for support, or slide the tart onto a serving plate by running a large spatula between the crust and the pan, using it to guide the tart onto the plate.

SERVING AND STORAGE NOTES: If desired, dust the surface of the tart with a bit of powdered sugar. Serve at room temperature with a spoonful of honeyed mascarpone. Because the filling’s rather sticky, I find it easiest to cut this tart with a serrated knife. I also encourage guests to eat it with their fingers because it's a little hard to cut with a fork. Store, covered loosely with foil, at room temperature for up to 5 days.

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