Excursion to Kutna Hora

21 years ago - #Prague

I had heard a lot of the ossuary at Kutna Hora. So we found an excursion to take us there. The town is an old mining town, which used to act as the mint for the Czech Republic. The town ranks high on the "quant scale"; but unfortunately, our tour guide was not so great. At our first stop, a beautiful church, she simply read from the english text that they give all tourists. She also added extra prepositions to the text and occassionally asked for help with words like "apron". Worse yet, we found out that the tour would not be stopping at the ossuary. So instead of going back to Prague with the tour, we went to the ossuary on our own. It was a beautiful day and the walk was only a few kilometers.

St. Barbara's Cathedral in Kutna Hora
St. Barbara's Cathedral in Kutna Hora

The walk along the old wall in Kutna Hora
The walk along the old wall in Kutna Hora

The ossuary was small, but quite amazing. the pictures do it some justice, but it's better to see it in person. Oddly enough, it did not seem morose. And only macabre from a distance. Up close, it was amazing beautiful. The chandelier has at least one of every bone in the human body.

The ossuary
The ossuary

A stack of bones
A stack of bones

An urn made of bones
An urn made of bones

A coat of arms
A coat of arms

This is a part of the coat of arms. It's an image of a bird picking out an eye of a Turk to celebrate the defeat of the Turks.
This is a part of the coat of arms. It's an image of a bird picking out an eye of a Turk to celebrate the defeat of the Turks.

After the ossuary, we walked a little further to the train Station.

We almost didn't realize that we had to transfer trains, but everything worked out well. We went back to the hotel - I relaxed and David went to the meeting for a bit.

For the evening's entertainment, David and guest were invited on a river boat with dinner and music. Granted, it was a bunch of doctors, but it turned out to be a lovely evening. The boat took us from one side of Prague to the other, with two stops in a lock. Looking at Prague at night was magical. There have been many times on the trip so far that I have thought, "So this is what they mean by Bohemia." I've been searching for words to describe it. It's more than just an epicurean lifestyle. That word always mates me think of France, where they take epicurianism very seriously. The Czech enjoyment of the pleasures in life is somehow devoid of hedonism. It's youthful without being immature. And it's entirely unselfconscious. More than Paris, this is a city I can imagine myself staying in - writing in journals, attending concerts, sitting by the banks of the river naively enjoying life.

A chandelier using at least one of every human bone
A chandelier using at least one of every human bone

This post is part of a series called...
Long Weekend in Prague
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We took a cab to the hotel. The driver reminded me of Kornblum from "Kavalier & Clay." the hotel was nice and didn't have one of those funny "shelf" toilets that I see in Eastern Europe. We unpacked and decided to head to the "Old Town." lt took us about 20 minutes and two trips to the subway station and back before we were on our way.
Our first day in Prague was really two. We left the house a little late, and than found out that we were dealing with rain, holiday weekend, and Friday afternoon traffic. We got to the airport as they were boarding the flight - in fact, it was mostly full when we got there. So we got two middle seats. For an over night flight. Yay. However, the flight to Zurich went relatively quickly. we had a five hour layover in Zurich, and we saw something about day rooms. So we decided to check them out. They were very white, sterile rooms with a communal toilet and Shower down the hall.
I'm having a hard time this morning, because I'm having a bit of a food hangover. We went out with friends of David to a place that turned out to be a tourist trap. It's called "U Kalicha" and is based on a popular Czech novel, "The Good Soldier." It was a stereo typical Eastern European event, complete with an accordion player and a tuba player. As soon as they sat us down, they looked at us and said, "Beer?" We said yes and they brought us each the biggest mug of beer I have ever seen. It had to have been at least a liter.